Tyroleans Make Wine?

Lagrein heralds from the Northeast region of Italy known as Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, a sort of Italian, Austrian, German region depending on what time (year) it is. From Valley of the Lakes in Trentino, among the Dolomite Alps, land to produce this varietal is scarce and expensive. Therefore, the wine is relatively rare. Bottega Vinaia is now a property of high producer Cavit. However, this Lagrein is a smaller volume product.

An extremely pleasant smell full of the usual dark fruits (black cherry, blackberry, plum) is quicky abandoned upon the first sip. This wine invites with its dark claret, supple vanilla overtones, and big nose, then departs the rich fruits for a shock of citrus on the tongue - think lemons. However, it is this distinctive character that makes this otherwise balanced wine enjoyable. I'm reminded of From Dusk Till Dawn, the classic Tarantino movie Starring George Clooney and Harvey Keitel. What starts and proceeds as a "sympathy for the bad guy" fugitives on the run movie, turns into a vampire movie after all. So it is with the 2001 Bottega Vinaia Lagrein. It builds expectations for a lush mouthful of dark fruit, but delivers a bitter, high acid punch. Sometimes I don't mind being punched, though.

Montes Syrah

My favorite wine of the evening, the 2005 Montes Alpha Syrah was surprisingly big. Full of black cherry, blackberry, and blueberry, with a hint of plum, this wine started out a bit hot but simply warmed me up. For $14 per bottle, I'd say this one is a steal. I'm sorry that I only picked up 3 - I will be going back for more. Delicious.

Australian Blend

After a long vacation, I dipped back into my cellar this evening. I wanted to pick a bottle to pair with a very strong flavored meal. I had veal and shrimp, normally bland, but mine was prepared with a heavy garlic and scallion sauce. Fantastic! Since it is five degrees Fahrenheit I needed something big and warm, like a fleece blanket on a comfy couch. Not looking for a cab to overpower the meal, I selected a 2002 Trumps Grenache Shiraz blend, by Charles Cimicky. Several hours later I'm still trying to figure it out. I'll start by noting that it is more pleasant than an $18 bottle is expected to be. Hit by spice immediately, it quickly tapers off to a smooth dark chocolate and light tannins, with luscious dark fruit. I'd call it plum before blackberry, but this may be from the nose. Then, by surprise, strawberry appears and hangs around for nearly ever. My wife mentioned the oak, which is there, but only as an enhancement. The last time I had a bottle, it was after a few cabs, and the consensus was negative. However, standing on its own, this wine is quite exquisite. The 14.5% alcohol is evident only with the spice, and the 65% grenache vs. 35% shiraz is an enjoyable mix. The bottle opened up nicely after one hour, was perfect at nearly two, then lost a bit of nose at three hours (or possibly my nose lost something). In any case, cozy, warm, and not overpowering, with gentle complexities. Mission accomplished.

Charles Cimicky winery is located in the Barossa valley, or Neu-Schlesien for the transplanted Germans. The bottles have a story about pioneers escaping the hot sun for a game of cards (Euchre) in the cellar of a vineyard cottage, but it appears contrived. However, as an avid Euchre player myself (yes, I'm from Michigan) Trumps with cards and friends will continue to be a winning trick.

Follow the title link. My fav is 283.